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KNITWARE Sweater Design HELP function key response file.
vs1.10 January 1992
copyright (C) 1991, 1992
Morningdew Consulting Services Ltd.
7604 Morningdew Road
R.R. #5 Victoria, B.C.
Canada V8X 4M6
(604) 652-4097
=========================================================================
%intro%
INTRODUCTION
The KNITWARE Sweater Design program has been written by a
knitter for knitters. I knit both by hand, and using a BOND
CLASSIC knitting frame. I was frustrated by the continual need
to convert patterns for different yarns, or sizes, for changing
a neckline, or lengthening a sleeve. The KNITWARE Sweater
Design program was the eventual outcome of this frustration.
This program will print a knitting pattern for you to use in
knitting a customized sweater, using the data that you give it,
and tables of standard body measurements and needle sizes. The
program uses your measurements, your style selections, your
gauge and yarn information to create a unique pattern. This
pattern also gives you a permanent record of what you have
knitted, and when.
.cp
INTRODUCTION
The pattern instructions are written for either hand or machine
knitters. The machine knitting instructions are very
simplified, assuming you are using a basic knitting frame,
without a ribber. If you have a ribber (lucky you) feel free to
use it. There are no specific instructions for punchcard or
electronic machines.
.cp
INTRODUCTION
KNITWARE Sweater Design will currently handle most combinations
of the following:
- Knit body of sweater in stocking stitch by machine or hand.
- Knit ribbing by machine or hand.
- Pullover or cardigan style.
- Drop shoulder, raglan, or set-in (fitted) sleeve style.
- Crew (round), V, or cowl (rolled) neckline.
- Body length: waist, regular, hip, or coat (tunic).
- Children's sizes 20 - 32, Women's sizes 30 - 48,
Men's sizes 32 - 52 (chest measurement).
- Ease varies from very tight to oversized fit.
- All default finished measurements (e.g. length of body,
ribbing, sleeve, depth or width of neck, etc.) can be
changed.
- Measurements in imperial (inches) or metric (cm) units.
- Calculate amount of yarn required.
.cp
INTRODUCTION
There are many things the program doesn't do. If there is
something particular you would like to see, let us know about
it. The program is continually under revision, and I am happy
to incorporate anyone's good ideas.
Particularly important, please let us know if you find any
mistakes or errors. The program has been tested exhaustively,
but there are so many possible combinations that some small
mistakes may have escaped.
*END*
%design notes%
DESIGN NOTES
The program gives you a pattern for a plain sweater tailored to
your size and specifications. You can easily add stripes,
intarsia, lace holes, cables, etc.. Remember, if adding cables
(or anything else that will change the stitch gauge), to either
knit a test swatch with the cables (if a lot of it), or to
adjust the ease a bit (for a small amount).
If you are using two or more different yarns (e.g. body in a
multi-coloured nubbly yarn, ribbing in a plain yarn) it is a
good idea to make a test swatch with each yarn, and run the
program twice, once with each stitch gauge. You will have to
manually combine the two patterns, or decide which bits to use,
but it will give you a better-looking finished garment.
*END*
%caution%
CAUTION
The patterns created by the KNITWARE program will produce
wearable, well-fitting sweaters in most cases. However, just as
for off-the-shelf patterns, knitting with the wrong needles, or
to a different gauge will give unpredictable results.
With the KNITWARE program, you have an even greater possibility
of error, since you can also change any of the measurement
data. For example, you could make the front neck width wider
than the back neck width, or the wrist measurement larger than
the upper arm. There are far too many possibilities for the
program to check them all, we assume that you will use common
sense.
Also, if you do change any measurement data, check your
measurements and the knitting instructions for reasonableness,
BEFORE starting to knit.
*END*
%data entry%
DATA ENTRY
All data entry for this program follows a few simple rules.
- Default (displayed) values will be used unless you type over
them.
- Type the value you want, then press the [Enter] key.
- The backspace <--, [Insert], and [Delete] keys can be used to
change data as it is being entered in a field.
- You may use the UP and DOWN arrow keys to move from one field
or position to another, without changing the data.
- The [Esc] key is used to quit the data entry altogether, and
return to the Main Menu.
- Use the [F1] key for Help. A single line of instructions will
be provided at the bottom left of the screen.
- Use the [Page Down] key to bypass the screen without making
any changes.
- A "BEEP" will sound if you try to enter a character in a
numeric field, or if your data is too long.
.cp
DATA ENTRY
There are two major types of data to be entered: mandatory, and
optional. Mandatory data fields are those that will be used to
calculate the pattern data. Some examples are: stitch and row
gauge, size, sleeve length. If the required data values are not
accurate, the sweater will, in all probability, not fit.
Optional data is for information purposes only. It is printed on
the pattern to help you remember when, or with what the sweater
was knitted. Some examples of optional data are: the date
finished, for whom the sweater is knitted, the yarn information.
Some data values are entered by a pop-up menu selection: e.g. sex,
size. For these, the field name is highlighted, not the data
value. Use the UP and DOWN arrow keys to move from one field to
another. Use the [Enter] key to select a field to change. A menu
of options will pop up. Use the first letter or cursor keys to
highlight an option, then the [Enter] key to select.
.cp
DATA ENTRY
After the last data field on the screen has been passed, the
verify message appears near the bottom of the screen:
Press ENTER to Accept, any other key to Edit.
You should check everything on the screen. If all is fine, press
[Enter], and the program will display the next screen. However,
if there IS something you want to change, press any other key, and
the cursor will return to the first field on the screen.
.cp
DATA ENTRY
The program checks all data as it is entered. If it is found to
be incorrect, or questionable, the beep is sounded and a message
is displayed in the lower left of the screen. The message must be
acknowledged (press any key) before you can correct the entry.
Most messages are self-explanatory, but if you have trouble, check
Section 8 of the User Manual which contains a list of some messages
and their explanations.
However, not all possibilities can be checked by the program. You
should verify that what you have entered on the screen is what you
want, before pressing [Enter] on the Verify response. You should
also check the printed pattern thoroughly (especially the Finished
Measurements section) BEFORE starting to knit the sweater.
*END*
%design intro%
DESIGN A NEW PATTERN - INTRODUCTION
Before you start running the program, you need a few things from
your knitting world:
- An idea of the sweater design that you want to knit.
- The size, and approximate finished measurements required
(or at least an idea as to how your model varies from the
"average").
- The yarn information, from the manufacturer's ball-band, or
from the spinner, if homespun.
- A test swatch of the yarn knitted on the needles (or dial
gauge or keyplate) and the pattern (usually stocking
stitch) that is to be used for the body of the sweater.
From this, the gauge over 4 inches (10 cm) for rows and
stitches must have been calculated. AN ACCURATE TEST GAUGE
IS CRUCIAL to designing and knitting a sweater that will
fit well.
.cp
DESIGN A NEW PATTERN - INTRODUCTION
The program is run from the main menu. In a typical session you
would design a pattern and then print it. After checking the
printed measurements, you may decide to change the pattern, then
print it again.
* * * * *
This is where it all starts. You have some wool, a test swatch,
some ideas as the size and style of sweater you want. Here all
your information is entered, and the program calculates the number
of stitches, of rows, of decreases, and cast-offs to make this
one-and-only just-for-you sweater.
.cp
DESIGN A NEW PATTERN - SAVE PATTERN
When all the data has been entered and verified, the program saves
it. Usually, you would then print the pattern, but you may exit at
this time, and print it in a later session.
When the program is ready to save the data it will ask you to enter
a pattern name. Try to choose a name that is meaningful and unique.
Some suggestions are the name of the person the sweater is knitted
for, followed by a description, number or date (e.g. Peter dinosaur,
Mary #7, Judith-Oct90). The name may be up to 15 characters long,
and be composed of numbers, letters, spaces, and most special
characters (e.g. - * # , . /).
If the name already exists, a message will be displayed and you will
have to choose a new name.
*END*
%change%
CHANGE EXISTING PATTERN
If you wish to change some part of a saved pattern design, then
you would chose this option. For example, before knitting, you
may want to change some of the finished measurements, or some
of the style information. When the sweater is finished, you may
want to add the completion date.
Initially, the program will display a screen listing the pattern
names currently on the file. Select the pattern name that you
want, or press [ESC] to exit without selecting one.
When the pattern data has been retrieved, the program proceeds to
the "Entering Design Data" screens. Your data values, as they
were last entered, will be displayed. Change only those data
fields that you want to change. If an entire screen is unchanged,
simply press the [Page Down] key from the first field, to bypass
entry in that screen.
.cp
CHANGE EXISTING PATTERN
All data that is displayed for a CHANGE is as you last entered and
stored it. This holds true for measurement data as well, as long
as none of the size or style data is changed.
However, when you change ANY of the size, sex, or style data,
the program will recalculate default values for ALL the
measurement data. If the measurement data has been recalculated
from default values, the ** Default Measurements ** message will
appear to the right of the chest measurement on the screen.
This may occasionally be a nuisance. For example, if you change
the size, if affects every measurement field, so recalculating them
is important. However, changing from a crew to a V neck affects
only the neck shaping, and if you have previously customized sleeve
length, back width, etc., these custom changes to the measurement
data will have to be re-entered.
.cp
CHANGE EXISTING PATTERN
When the Finished Measurements have been verified, the data must
be saved again. You will be given the choice of saving the data
under the old pattern file name, or with a new name. If you are
just correcting some values, and you have no reason to save the
old data, use the old name.
If, however, you have made major changes to create a new pattern
from an old one, or you want to decide between the two at some
later date, use a new name.
*END*
%resave%
RESAVE EXISTING PATTERN
You are given the choice of saving the data under the old pattern
file name, or with a new name. If you have just corrected some
values, and you have no reason to save the old data, use the old
name. The new data will replace the old data on the file.
If, however, you have made major changes to create a new pattern
from an old one (and you want to keep the old one as it is), or
you want to decide between the two at some later date, then use
a new name. Both the old data and the new data will be on the
file.
*END*
%print%
PRINT PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS
When you have just finished designing a new pattern, or changing
an old one, you should print the pattern to verify the details.
You can then use it to knit the sweater.
The print procedure may also be used to print a pattern that has
been saved on file previously.
The program may ask you whether you want to print the current
pattern (the one you just designed or changed) or one from file.
If you need a file pattern, the "Pattern names on file" screen
will be displayed, and you can choose the pattern name that you
require.
.cp
PRINT PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS
The next question is whether you wish to calculate the amount of
yarn required to knit your sweater. There are many ways to do
this, but the program uses only one method, and you must tell it
how far (number of rows by number of stitches) one ball of yarn
will go. To find how far one ball will go, you can simply cast
on a number of stitches (e.g. 50) and knit until the ball is
finished, or you can continue knitting your test swatch until the
ball is gone.
Optionally, you can initially say no to calculating the amount of
yarn, and start knitting your sweater. When one ball is gone in
knitting the back, then re-run the program do the calculation, to
check whether you have purchased enough yarn to finish the garment.
.cp
PRINT PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS
The final question is whether your printer is ready. Check that
your printer is turned on, that the paper is inserted correctly
and is set to the top of form. The pattern prints on standard
letter size paper (8.5 x 11 inches). If you commonly use a
different size, check that the correct size is loaded, and the
form length is set to 11.
A pullover will usually require two pages, a cardigan will need
three. The time taken to print will depend on the speed of your
printer.
*END*
%util change%
CHANGE DESIGNER DEFAULTS
The first time that you used the program, you had to enter the
Designer Defaults. However, as you use the program more, or as
your needs change, you may want to change some of these default
values.
Changing the designer defaults is identical to setting Designer
Data (see Design New Pattern) except for the values displayed on
the screen. Change those values that you wish to and they will
be changed on the defaults file. Upon completion, you will be
returned to the Utilities menu.
*END*
%util delete%
DELETE PATTERN DATA
As the number of patterns on your pattern file increases,
accessing (loading and/or saving) the data takes longer. The
program allows a maximum of 99 patterns on the file, but you will
probably decide long before then that the file access is taking
too long.
You may also have patterns on the file that were trials, never
used, or unwanted. The delete function can be used to tidy up the
file.
WARNING. Once deleted, the pattern data can no longer be
retrieved or used again. The program does NOT make a backup of
your pattern data file before the deletions are done. If you want
a backup, refer to your DOS manual on how to do it. The file name
is KWS_PATT.DAT.
.cp
DELETE PATTERN DATA
The Delete Pattern Data utility function allows you to select
which patterns to delete from the file. You may delete any
number, from none to all of them.
The "Delete Old Pattern Data" screen will be displayed. Enter the
number of the first pattern to delete, verify the name, then enter
the next number as it is requested. Pattern numbers may be entered
in any order. Press [ESC] at any time to exit without deleting
any patterns, for example if you enter and verify a pattern that
you really want to keep.
When you have finished selecting the pattern numbers to delete,
press [F2] to physically delete the patterns from the file. The
computer will take a few moments to process the deletes, and will
then display a message that the pattern file deletions have been
completed.
*END*
%patt delete%
DELETE PATTERN DATA
WARNING: The pattern data file is NOT backed up by the program.
Once you delete the patterns, they are gone for good, unless you
do a backup. See User Manual section 4.4.2.
You may delete any number of patterns, from none to all of them.
When the delete screen is displayed, enter the number of the
first pattern to delete, verify the name, then enter the next number
as it is requested. Pattern numbers may be entered in any order.
Pattern numbers marked for deletion will be highlighted on the
screen.
Patterns are not physically deleted from the file until you press
[F2]. Press [Esc] at any time before then to exit without deleting
any patterns from the file.
*END*
%util list%
LIST PATTERNS ON FILE
This function allows you to look at the names of the patterns you
have stored on the file. It simply displays the pattern names in
the same format as the Change or Delete, and allows you to scroll
through them using the [Page Up] and [Page Down] keys. Press [ESC]
when you have finished.
*END*
%designer data%
DESIGNER DATA
The Designer Data Screen is the first screen to be displayed for
designing a new pattern, or changing an old pattern. It is the
same screen used for setting or changing Designer Defaults.
The default values shown on the screen will depend on what your
designer defaults have been set to. Review the data on the
screen, and determine which fields need changing for the current
pattern. If the meaning of a field is not clear, press [F1] for
help.
If you do not want to make any changes, use the [Page Down] key
to bypass the entire screen.
.cp
DESIGNER DATA
If you change the COLOUR, the new colours will not be used until
you finish the screen. If you have a monochromatic (no colours)
machine, your colour will automatically be set to "None".
Changing it to a different colour may have unpredictable results.
If you are knitting either the body or ribbing by hand, the
"TYPE OF NEEDLES" message will be displayed. Entering this field
correctly will improve the clarity of the printed pattern.
Likewise, if you are knitting either the body or ribbing by
machine, the "TYPE OF MACHINE" message will be displayed.
If you are changing from all hand or all machine to the other, or
a combination, the screen will be displayed twice, the second time
with the new "Type of needles/machine" message.
.cp
DESIGNER DATA
You may knit both the body and the ribbing by machine, or both by
hand. You may also knit the body by machine and the ribbing by
hand. However, the program does not allow the reverse (body by
hand, and ribbing by machine).
The "RIBBING FIRST" option is displayed if you are knitting both
the body and ribbing by machine. If you have a ribber, or prefer
to knit the ribbing first, followed by the body, enter "First".
If you like to knit the body, then rehang the stitches to do the
ribbing, enter "Last". This option applies to the back, front,
and sleeve ribbings only.
*END*
%gauge data%
YARN AND GAUGE DATA
The second screen is for entry of the yarn and tension gauge
information.
The first seven fields on this screen are optional. If entered,
they are printed on the pattern. Sometimes, it is handy to have
this information available. At other times, you may feel it is a
waste of time to enter the yarn data, and decide instead to tape a
ball-band and a few strands of yarn to the back or the bottom of
the pattern.
The default value for start date is the current date. If there is
not enough room in the yarn data fields, abbreviate some part of
it and try again.
.cp
YARN AND GAUGE DATA
The gauge data is crucial. Check the measurements and
calculations of your test swatch gauge carefully. Remember that
this gauge is measured over 4 inches or 10 cm (NOT one inch).
Dial gauge/keyplate/needle sizes are not used in any calculations,
but they are necessary for clarity of the printed pattern
instructions. The dial gauge/keyplate size messages are displayed
if knitting by machine.
Needle size messages are displayed if knitting by hand. The
needle size should be in the needle type entered on the Designer
Data. e.g. "4.25" is valid for metric, but not for American. The
needle size entered will be checked against a table, and a message
displayed if the value is not valid.
*END*
%style data%
SIZE AND STYLE DATA
All data fields on this screen are mandatory. Values are entered
from pop-up menus.
The size and sex are used to look up standard measurements in the
size table, and to calculate the finished measurements of your
sweater. The sex field is important; the measurements for a
child's 32 are different from a woman's 32, which are in turn
different from a man's 32.
CHILDREN's sizes relate to approximate ages as follows:
Size (in): 20 22 24 26 28 30 32
Size (cm): 51 56 61 66 71 76 81
Age: 2 4 6 8 10 12 14
As we are all well aware, children vary greatly in their growth.
The chest size, body and arm lengths should be used primarily in
selecting a size, not the age.
.cp
SIZE AND STYLE DATA
EASE STYLE determines the amount of ease in the garment. It
varies from very tight, with no ease, to oversized, which has
5-6 inches of ease around the chest. Ease is applied to the
chest, back width, armhole and upper arm measurements.
The CARDIGAN style is for a buttoned front on overlapping vertical
ribbing, which is the same width as the neckline ribbing.
The SWEATER BODY LENGTH code is used to calculate the finished
body length measurement. It is also used to determine where the
ribbing will fit. Use "Waist" to have the ribbing snug around the
waist, "Hip" or "Coat" to have it fit around the hips, "Regular"
to have it fit between the waist and hips (exactly where depends
on the finished body length measurement). For coat (tunic) length,
you may want to decrease the ribbing width if you want the ribbing
to fit more snugly below the hips.
.cp
SIZE AND STYLE DATA - NECKLINES
Both the CREW and V NECKLINE have a ribbing finish. However, it
is a relatively easy matter for an experienced knitter to change
this to a rolled neck, a picot edge, etc..
The COWL NECK is for a fairly loose collar knitted in stocking
stitch, that will roll naturally. Knitting to a tighter gauge
(smaller needles/keyplate/dial gauge) will give a collar with a
closer fit. Likewise, a looser gauge will give a looser fit.
Optionally, the collar may be knit in garter stitch, or any
ribbing or pattern, instead of stocking stitch.
The COWL NECK collar is knit in one piece on the sweater, with a
seam on the left side. When finished, and rolled down, the right
(knit) side will be showing.
.cp
SIZE AND STYLE DATA - SLEEVES
The SLEEVE LENGTH style is used to calculate the finished sleeve
length, and to determine where the sleeve ribbing will fit. A
full length sleeve will come down to the hand, and the ribbing
will fit around the wrist. A 3/4 length sleeve will end midway
between the wrist and elbow, and the ribbing should fit around the
forearm at that point.
*END*
%meas data%
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS DATA
Not all of the measurement fields will be displayed for every
style. Back width is used only for set-in sleeves. Neck ribbing
length is replaced with collar length for a cowl neck. Sleeve
top (upper arm) measurement is not needed for a drop shoulder
style.
The data shown on this screen is that which the program calculated
using the size and style data that you entered in the previous
screens, and the size table. The size table contains standard or
"average" measurements for given sizes. How close to average you
are will determine how many of these fields you will want to change.
Since it is hard to check all these numbers on the screen, it is a
good idea to print the pattern using this "first-pass" data, check
the data from the printed pattern, then return to the program to
change those fields that need changing, and finally print the
revised pattern to knit from.
.cp
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS DATA
Not every measurement needs to be checked. Check those that are
crucial to the fit of the garment, and the way you want it to
look.
All data shown on this screen (except size) are finished
measurements of the sweater. They are calculated with ease
included, as determined by the EASE STYLE.
LENGTHS are also calculated with a certain amount of ease, for
comfort and style. Remember this ease when measuring your body
and sleeve lengths.
.cp
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS DATA
The finished measurements for body and sleeve length include the
ribbing length shown below them. BODY LENGTH is measured from the
back of the neck (below the neck ribbing) to the bottom of the
ribbing. SLEEVE LENGTH is measured from the armhole seam to the
bottom of the ribbing.
RIBBING WIDTHs are the finished measurements around the body and
wrist (or forearm), so that when the ribbing is very slightly
stretched it will fit comfortably at the length specified.
SLEEVE BOTTOM is the finished measurement around the sleeve at the
wrist (for full length) or forearm (for 3/4 length). To allow for
blousing, it is a separate measurement from the sleeve ribbing
width, which is measured at the same length.
.cp
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS DATA
NECK measurements do not include the ribbing. Neck depth is
measured from the centre bottom front of the neck to the top. The
front neck width for a cardigan is both sides combined.
NECK RIBBING length is also used as ribbing width for the vertical
front button/buttonhole ribbing on a cardigan.
There is the option on this screen to return to the "Size and
Style Data" screen. This allows you to try several different
sizes or styles, to see what the finished measurements look like,
without having to save, or re-enter all the other data.
*END*
%problems%
PROBLEMS - HOW TO QUIT
The most common way to quit is to select the Quit option from the
main menu. This closes the files and exits neatly from the
program. If you wish to exit while in the data entry process,
you can press [Esc], then Quit from the Main Menu. However,
with [Esc], your current data will NOT be saved.
If you have a problem with the program, and even the [Esc] key
does not work, try [Ctrl] [Break] held down together. This is not
such a tidy way of exiting, the data you were working on will be
lost, and files will not be closed properly.
If even this does not work, you will have to reset your computer,
and start your session all over. Remove any diskettes you may
have in your floppy drives. To reset, press the RESET button if
you have one, press the [Ctrl] [Alt] and [Del] keys all together,
or turn the machine off, then on again.
.cp
PROBLEMS
If you have a problem, first note (on paper), the exact nature of
the problem. If it's a message on the screen, then do a [Print
Screen].
Next read the documentation thoroughly. If it is all still Greek
to you, then get help. For the install, DOS commands, file
recovery, or start-up, you need someone who knows a bit of DOS and
how computers work.
If it is something that has always worked fine before, try
resetting your system, and starting again.
If it is a problem with the way the program works, the results it
gives you, or the data it uses, describe it on the Comment /
Problem Form (Appendix B of the User Manual) and mail or phone it
to us.
.cp
PROBLEMS - ERROR MESSAGES
There are several types of messages that may appear on your
screen. Usually the beep will sound and the message will appear
at the bottom left of the screen.
Most of the messages require acknowledgement (press any key), and
a change in the input data. Fatal errors will exit from the
program, and will require a change to the system environment
before the program can be re-run.
Most messages are self-explanatory, but many are listed in the
User Manual, section 8. See section 8.4 on how to recover from
fatal error messages.
*END*
%mcs%
WHO WE ARE
My name is Janet Tombu. I live in sunny west-coast Victoria,
British Columbia. I have a university degree in Mathematics, and
worked for many years in the data processing and computer systems
design industry. In 1986, my husband Jerry and I set up our
company, Morningdew Consulting Services Ltd. Under its umbrella,
we have continued our computer consulting activities.
My English grandmother taught me to knit. Since that time I have
made numerous sweaters, scarves and hats. I even tried gloves one
time, never again! In February 1989 I bought my first knitting
machine, a BOND. This put a whole different perspective on
knitting!!
.cp
WHO WE ARE
Because I could now make more sweaters more quickly, I more
frequently ran into the problems and frustrations of converting
patterns to different sizes and gauges, of changing necklines, or
body lengths. I started to dabble on the computer, making pattern
changes, adding bits and pieces, printing a design in a variety of
sizes.
With the encouragement of friends (and dismay of husband)
I have, since the summer of 1990, directed all my computer systems
expertise to the development of the KNITWARE Sweater Design
program. Progress is slow, because my two small daughters still
come first. But things do eventually get done.
The program is continually being modified. If you have any ideas,
suggestions, comments, or even criticism, please write to me at
the address below.
.cp
WHO WE ARE
Janet Tombu
Morningdew Consulting Services, Ltd.
7604 Morningdew Road
R.R. #5, Victoria
B.C. Canada
V8X 4M6
Telephone: (604) 652-4097
*END*
